All expedition voyages start with an itinerary. Few follow it. This month-long journey along the coast of Antarctica was no exception. What began as a voyage of exploration soon turned into something far more urgent—a rescue mission in one of the most remote corners of the world. Antarctica lies at the bottom of the world —or perhaps at the top, depending on how you hold the map. When we set out to travel along the coast, we wondered: which coast exactly? East or west? It tur