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A Napa Loop Without the Buzz

Scenic back roads, a quiet hike, wildflowers in bloom, and a brush with history—our wine-country escape was all about the journey, not the tasting.


On our most recent trip to Napa Valley, Glen and I weren’t chasing wine—we were chasing scenery. Rather than zip up Highway 29 with the rest of the world, we took the back roads from Fairfield to Calistoga, winding past Atlas Peak, through Chiles and Pope Valleys, into Angwin, and finally descending to the Silverado Trail. On the return, we made a loop: hiking in Bothe-Napa Valley Park, then driving to Vichy Springs and on to Montecello Road, down Wooden Valley Road, and back to Fairfield.

Fairfield to Calistoga (left), Boethe-Napa Park to Fairfield (right)
Fairfield to Calistoga (left), Boethe-Napa Park to Fairfield (right)

Not long after leaving Fairfield proper, we passed Bally Keal Winery. I pulled over to snap a photo of their front-lawn art—an aluminum sculpture of a wine bottle eternally pouring into a glass. Later, I learned Bally Keal also has a car museum, and it's open to wine tasters. Clever marketing!

Bally Keal Winery
Bally Keal Winery

Vineyard in Solano County (Suisun)
Vineyard in Solano County (Suisun)

A few miles on, curiosity led us to detour a mile to Mankas Corner in Suisun Valley. I needed to know what, exactly, was at the corner. We found Vezér Family Vineyard, a tasting room, and Mankas Grill. Suisun Valley proudly claims to be the Petite Syrah capital of the world—but since we didn’t stop to taste, that claim remains unverified (at least by us). Maybe next time.

Wooden Valley
Wooden Valley

The drive was delightfully winding and virtually empty. We pulled over now and then to take in the views: vineyard after vineyard after vineyard. It made me wonder—who’s drinking all this wine?

Overlook of Wooden Valley
Overlook of Wooden Valley

Chiles Valley Road felt familiar. We’d been here before, and this time we could see how well the landscape had bounced back from the 2020 fires. The scars were still visible—charred tree trunks, blackened poles, scorched barn walls—but the valley had come back to life. We passed Rust Ridge and Volker Eisele, two vineyards open for tastings by appointment. I’d happily return to Volker Eisele someday—their wine is outstanding. Rust Ridge intrigues me mostly because they have horses and a B&B. Who wouldn’t want to wake up to vineyard views and horses?

Scars left by the 2020 Chiles Valley Fire. A melted sign on a phone pole.
Scars left by the 2020 Chiles Valley Fire. A melted sign on a phone pole.
An old barn in Chiles Valley.
An old barn in Chiles Valley.

The town of Angwin, perched on the hill above the Silverado Trail, is practically a campus. Home to a Seventh Day Adventist college, church, and hospital, it feels like a self-contained world. From there, it’s a scenic descent to the Silverado Trail—and worth it to skip the congestion that often snarls Route 12.

Chiles Valley
Chiles Valley
Native Redbud in Chiles Valley. (🧢 A tip of the hat to Angel for identifying.)
Native Redbud in Chiles Valley. (🧢 A tip of the hat to Angel for identifying.)

On our return, we hiked Bothe-Napa Valley Park before heading into new territory: Vichy Springs. This little town sits just past the Silverado Resort and includes Cordeiro’s Steakhouse, which gets great reviews (and charges accordingly). We didn’t eat there—another time, perhaps—but the road that followed, Montecello, was a beautiful drives. It eventually led us to Wooden Valley Road, which we had taken earlier en route to Chiles Valley. We had come full circle.

Rebecca Jane Kellog, died age 13 years and 10 months old. Buried in the Pioneer Cemetery in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Rebecca Jane Kellog, died age 13 years and 10 months old. Buried in the Pioneer Cemetery in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
William W. Parker, buried in the Pioneer Cemetery in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
William W. Parker, buried in the Pioneer Cemetery in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Owlet moth on a common wooly sunflower. (Might be wrong about the flower.) Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Owlet moth on a common wooly sunflower. (Might be wrong about the flower.) Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Wild Onion Flower (not sure exactly which species) Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Wild Onion Flower (not sure exactly which species) Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Polygala in Bothe-Napa Valley Park. (🧢 A tip of the hat to Angel for identifying.)
Polygala in Bothe-Napa Valley Park. (🧢 A tip of the hat to Angel for identifying.)
Coast Range Fence Lizard in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Coast Range Fence Lizard in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Diogene's Lantern in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Diogene's Lantern in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Wood Fungus in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Wood Fungus in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.

Bush Monkey Flower in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Bush Monkey Flower in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Winter Vetch in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.
Winter Vetch in Bothe-Napa Valley Park.

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