At the foot of Mount Parnassus, the old quarter of Harmena in Amfissa still smells faintly of leather and oak. Water runs through stone channels once vital to a thriving trade, and though the hammers have fallen silent in most workshops, one still echoes with the rhythm of human hands. A Family that Endures As I ate lunch at an outdoor restaurant in Harmena, I looked forward to meeting Spyros Merinopoulos , who, together with his father, runs the town’s sole remaining tannery