Beyond Belief at Phinda (&Beyond)
- Digital Rabbit
- Apr 7
- 5 min read
Our final safari on the morning of April 7 was nothing short of extraordinary. Immediately afterward, we were whisked to the airstrip for our flight to Kruger International and then on to Johannesburg. Everything went smoothly—someone met us at each transit point to guide us along. While not strictly necessary, the seamless support was genuinely appreciated and made for a stress-free transition.
Upon checking into the Intercontinental Hotel across the street from the airport, we were informed that the internet had been down since the previous day. Cell reception for our plan was slower than a carrier pigeon—occasionally sputtering to life for a few seconds before cutting out. I realized that posting an update would have to wait until I had a stable connection capable of handling photo uploads and text. So if you were wondering whether I got eaten by a lion during that final safari—rest assured, I did not. I was indeed around plenty of lions—just not hungry ones. The internet finally returned the afternoon of April 8.
Lions, Lions, and More Lions
A family of four joined us for the evening safari on April 6, with one goal in mind: lions. And they got their wish.
A pride had been spotted earlier in the northern part of the reserve. &Beyond has a thoughtful policy that no more than three safari vehicles can view animals at a time. We were added to the queue, so in the meantime, we searched for other wildlife until Steve, our guide, got the call to proceed.
As we left the red-clay roads and low scrub near our lodge, the landscape gradually shifted to sandy tracks, taller trees, and dense bushes. We passed towering torchwood trees—named for their combustibility—and paused briefly to observe velvet monkeys playing in the branches. Steve typically wouldn’t stop for monkeys, which are considered pests around the lodges, but since we had children in the group, he made an exception. The monkeys looked rather perplexed by the attention. Personally, I was delighted—we all were. Pests or not, they’re adorable.
We saw giraffes, zebras, white rhinos, an endearing family of warthogs, and even a tortoise. These sightings kept us well entertained until we got the call: time to see the lions.
To my surprise, they were lounging in the middle of the road. Like all cats, they enjoy warmth, and the red dirt retains heat from the day. It also gives them a clear vantage point. The pride consisted of several females and adolescent males—one of whom was just beginning to grow his mane. We watched them sprawl lazily before they began to stir and move along, one by one.
As they padded up the road, one young male ducked behind a bush, crouching playfully. He leapt out to ambush another male, and the two began sparring—classic sibling-style antics, so familiar and so charming.
Our return to the lodge was partly in darkness. We spotted a few nocturnal birds and listened to the rising chorus of frogs and insects. Lwazi, our tracker, swept a torch across the road, scanning for the reflective eyes of night-time predators. He switched off the light when we neared daytime animals like giraffes and zebras, to avoid disturbing them. At one point, he asked Steve to reverse the vehicle—he’d spotted a chameleon. Incredible!
Steve jumped out and gently pulled a branch closer so we could see the tiny creature. I still can’t fathom how Lwazi spotted it from a moving vehicle. The photo isn’t perfect, but you can see just how small it was.
And the wildlife didn’t stop there. Back at the lodge, I saw a toad, and as I stepped out of the women’s toilet, a banded genet scurried from the path into the bushes. I caught a glimpse of its ringed tail as it disappeared.
In Quest of a Leopard
The next morning, it was just my husband and me with Ranger Steve and Tracker Lwazi. The family had opted to sleep in. Steve proposed an ambitious goal: to find a leopard in the open. It was a risky choice—based more on a hunch than on hard evidence. Normally, safari routes are chosen based on concrete signs: recent tracks, known dens, or prior sightings. But with only two guests, and both of us up for adventure, Steve suggested we explore a less-visited region—to find his favorite animal, a leopard . (For the record, Lwazi’s favorite animal is the honey badger.)
Our first sighting was a group of giraffes walking along the dirt road. Wild animals prefer roads because they’re easier to navigate and help avoid ticks, which are abundant in the tall grass. With binoculars, you can actually see ticks embedded in their hides. Fortunately, animals like giraffes and hippos have birds—nature’s pest control—perched on them, plucking off bugs as they go.
We left the main track and ventured onto faint trails. Branches brushed against the vehicle, and we had to duck frequently to avoid both thorns and bark spider webs. These spiders industriously string webs across paths overnight, and early-morning safaris often run into them, though the spiders are rarely disturbed.
We saw zebra, wildebeest, and plenty of birds—but no leopard. With the grass so high, a leopard would be hard to spot unless it flicked its white-tipped tail above the blades.
Steve and Lwazi got out to check tracks a few times. Nothing. I’d resigned myself to the likelihood that we wouldn’t see one. Then Steve suddenly stopped, jumped out, and called, “Leopard tracks! I think they lead into the bush.” But Lwazi, scanning the trees, pointed behind us: “No—there’s a female leopard in the tree we just passed.”
At first, I could barely make her out through the foliage. Steve repositioned the vehicle for a better view. And there she was—elegantly draped across a branch, backlit by the morning sun. It was difficult to get the exposure right, but I managed one good shot out of hundreds.
Eventually, the leopard leapt from the tree and walked along the road. We followed at a respectful distance as she strolled into the high grass and disappeared from view. What a spectacular way to end our safari.
To celebrate, we drove to a scenic overlook and toasted with mochachocarulas and cookies. Steve and Lwazi were radiant—high-fiving and grinning ear to ear. They hadn’t seen a leopard in the open in over a month, and this one was found by hunch, persistence, and a bit of luck. It was a rare sighting—and a shame the other family missed it.
Thanks Goes to DNA Wild
Our post-cruise adventure was arranged by DNA Wild at Silversea’s request. The itinerary was flawless—from the moment we stepped off the Silver Wind to the moment we checked in for our international flight in Johannesburg. I’m deeply impressed with DNA Wild and highly recommend them for African wildlife adventures.
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