Appreciating Saldanha Bay

I’ve spent the past few nights anchored in the calm waters of Saldanha Bay, enjoying blue skies, mild winds, and pleasantly warm days. From the deck, I’ve gazed out at the small town hugging the shoreline and found myself wondering about a few of the sights scattered across the bay.

Farming Mussels

The water here is dotted with wooden rafts and lines of buoys. At first, I mistook them—submarines, perhaps, or a congregation of birds? But a closer look through binoculars told a different story. Mussels.

I’ve seen mussel farms before, in Ireland and Southern California, and the process is elegantly simple. When mussels spawn, their fertilized eggs develop into free-swimming larvae within 24 hours. Many become food for marine animals, but a lucky few drift along until they find something to cling to.

Rafts for mussel farming in front, Saldanha Steel Works in the back

In the wild, they attach to rocks or pier pilings. In commercial farms, they latch onto ropes suspended from rafts or buoys. Within about three weeks, the survivors anchor themselves. A year later, they’re ready for harvest. Farmers haul up the ropes, harvest the mature mussels that meet size requirements, and lower the rest back into the sea to keep growing.

This rope-based method has advantages. Mussels raised this way stay grit-free, as they’re constantly flushed by clean water. Saldanha Bay benefits from the nutrient-rich Benguela Current and the protection of a long breakwater—ideal conditions for shellfish.

Most of the bay’s mussels are farmed by Blue Ocean, with a portion cultivated by Imbazza, a black-majority-owned company. Both must contend with the occasional red tide, when algae blooms make mussels temporarily unsafe for humans. Interestingly, while the toxins are harmful to us, the algae actually help the mussels bulk up. Farmers pause harvesting during these events and test the water daily, resuming after a safe three-week window.

Making Steel

Onshore, a vast industrial complex sits silent—the former Saldanha Steel Works. Once a major local employer, the facility closed in 2020, largely due to soaring electricity costs.

There’s talk of a revival. ArcelorMittal South Africa, a subsidiary of the global steel giant headquartered in Luxembourg, is exploring the idea of reopening the mill. But this time, they aim to use green hydrogen to produce low-carbon steel.

Negotiations are ongoing, with the company seeking government support and possible energy concessions. A restart would be welcome news for the community, especially for the many who lost jobs when the plant shut its doors.

Catching Wind Currents

Meanwhile, the sky belongs to the gulls. A subspecies of Kelp Gull makes its home here, often gliding gracefully around the bay and swooping near the ship. With red-tipped yellow beaks and steady wings, they catch the prevailing wind with ease—reminding me how life, in all its forms, finds a way to thrive in this protected corner of the world.

Kelp Gull. Note the yellow beak with red highlight.

Looking Back: Final Recap & Briefing

I felt a wave of emotion as Jamie stepped up for his final recap. For the past 22 days, we’ve been more than just passengers—we’ve been a little community, sharing the rhythm of life at sea, swapping stories over meals, watching the same sunsets, marveling at the same wildlife. It’s hard to believe it’s coming to an end.

Jamie’s talk was a beautiful reflection of all we’ve experienced—complete with stunning photos that brought back moments I didn’t even realize I’d already tucked away as memories. When he called the expedition team to the stage, the applause was genuine and full of gratitude. These people have given so much heart to this journey, and it showed.

Expedition Staff. Image by Glen Gould.

Final Thoughts: The Journey Continues

Even though the ship docks tomorrow, I’m not quite ready to stop exploring. Glen and I will spend a day in Cape Town—one of those cities I’ve always wanted to see properly—and then we’re off on a three-night safari at &Beyond’s Phinda Lodge in the eastern part of South Africa.

It’s part of a post-trip option arranged by Silversea, and I’ll keep writing daily updates for those of you wondering whether these extensions are worth it. (Spoiler: I have a good feeling they will be.) The voyage may be ending, but the adventure? Not just yet.