Time travel has long captured our imaginations, often depicted as stepping into a machine, setting a destination, and arriving in another era. While literal time travel remains in the realm of science fiction, there are other ways to connect with the past. Some places carry the weight of history, allowing us to experience their stories and legacies on a profound level.
For me, Gwaii Haanas revealed two such places: Hlk’yah GawGa (Windy Bay on Lyell Island) and SG̱ang Gwaay Llnagaay. (Click the image to see a slideshow.)
In the 1980s, Hlk’yah GawGa became the heart of the Haida Nation’s protests against logging. The Haida constructed a longhouse here, which served as a gathering place for those committed to protecting the land. These protests eventually led to the Haida Gwaii Reconciliation Act, a milestone in the preservation of their homeland. Today, the longhouse stands not only as a cultural center but also as a powerful symbol of the Haida people’s resilience.
Standing before the longhouse, hearing the story of its creation, and understanding the significance of the artwork on its facade (designed by Robert Davidson), I felt a deep connection to the events that had unfolded here. Inside, as we listened to songs, drumming, and joined in dance, the space seemed alive with the echoes of past struggles and triumphs.
The longhouse has witnessed much—concern for the forest, the tension of protest, the relief when logging was halted. Reg, the Watchman for the site, brought this history to life through his storytelling. It was easy to imagine being there during those critical moments.
SG̱ang Gwaay Llnagaay, once a thriving Haida village, also left a strong impression. Situated along a sheltered bay, I could easily picture life as it once was: the community, sustained by the rich waters and the bounty of the forest. Closing my eyes, I could almost see the village, with its longhouses and poles, and feel the harmony that once existed between the people and the land.
As we were leaving, Teri-Lynn Williams Davidson (see note) shared a story as we stood at a small, canyon-like spot. She spoke of recording songs here, where she and her band sensed the presence of others in the forest. Perhaps it was the lingering energy of those who lived here long ago, or maybe it was the land itself, still guarding its history and the memories of those who once called it home.
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Note: We were honored to have Teri-Lynn Williams Davidson as guest and crew on our Bluewater Adventures trip to Haida Gwaii. This multi-talented Haida woman is General Counsel to the Haida nation, a singer-songwriter, activist, author, and artist. She works tirelessly for Indigenous-environmental causes, Haida land title rights, and other litigation for the Haida nation. Onboard the Island Solitude, she sang for us, taught us how to dance, shared Haida cultural knowledge, and explained Haida land title issues. I am a fan of her album Grizzly Bear Town, which is available online through all the usual music outlets.
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