Gwaii Haanas, a lush rainforest blanketed in moss and dominated by Sitka spruce, cedar, and Western hemlock, is a sanctuary of ancient trees. Nearly ninety percent of the area is forested, with much of it preserved as old-growth. This rich landscape has been central to the Haida Nation for millennia. However, in 1853, the British declared the Haida lands as their territory. You may know the archipelago as Queen Charlotte Islands but its true name is Haida Gwaii.
Logging
The settlers started logging in Haida Gwaii around 1900, gradually escalating with advances in logging technology. By the 1950s, large-scale commercial logging was in full swing. The Haida Nation resisted these developments, fighting to protect their ancestral lands through protests and negotiations.
The turning point came in 1985 when Haida protesters blockaded logging operations on Lyell Island. This act of defiance led to the cessation of logging in 1987 and the establishment of Gwaii Haanas as a protected area the following year.
Respectful Resource Management
The Haida Nation’s sustainable resource management practices reflect a deep respect for the forest. The forest provided them with trees for canoes, poles, and housing. Before felling a tree, they carefully test its health by cutting small holes to examine the core. Only when assured of its quality would they harvest the tree. Culturally Modified Trees (CMTs) stand as living testaments to this careful stewardship.
The Haida were also skilled at extracting planks from a living tree without causing lasting harm. Remarkably, the trees would heal and continue to thrive, demonstrating the symbiotic relationship between the Haida and their environment.
Walking through the ancient forests of Gwaii Haanas, I was struck by the sense of connection between the Haida people and the trees. Standing before a towering cedar, I could almost feel the quiet conversation between tree and earth. Each step on the soft, moss-covered ground felt like stepping into history—a history preserved in every CMT, each one a living record of respectful use.
Big Trees
During our hikes in Gwaii Haanas with Bluewater Adventures, we often paused in reverence when encountering an especially massive tree. While we took photos of each other to emphasize the tree’s girth, I found myself gazing upward, marveling at how these giants have stood sentinel for centuries, protecting and nourishing the forest.
These trees, part of the “Wood Wide Web”, communicate with their neighbors through intricate fungal networks—a concept wonderfully illustrated in Richard Powers’ novel The Overstory. It’s a powerful reminder that the forest is not a collection of individual trees but a vibrant, interconnected community
Final Thoughts
Exploring Gwaii Haanas revealed more than just stunning landscapes; it offered a glimpse into the delicate balance between human culture and nature. The Haida’s respect for their land and the lessons we can learn from the forest’s silent wisdom remind us that sustainability and preservation are more than buzzwords—they are practices rooted in deep understanding and respect.
About the images: Click an image to see a larger version and access the slideshow version that allows you to step through all the photos.
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